Fly Fishing Near Bariloche, and When to Head South

Bariloche is the best known town in Argentine Patagonia, and for many anglers it is the first place they land. It sits on Lake Nahuel Huapi with rivers in every direction, an airport with frequent flights from Buenos Aires, and dozens of guides and fly shops. This guide covers the water anglers fish from Bariloche, how the season and license work, when the fishing is at its best, and when it makes sense to use Bariloche as a gateway and keep driving south.

We are a fishing lodge in the Cholila valley, about two and a half to three hours south of Bariloche by road. The rivers around Bariloche are not our home water, so we describe them as a neighbor would, and we are clear about where our own fishing starts.

The water around Bariloche

Nahuel Huapi National Park surrounds the town, and its lakes and rivers hold rainbow trout, brown trout, brook trout and landlocked salmon. A few names come up again and again.

The Limay. The river flows out of Lake Nahuel Huapi at the edge of town and runs east toward the steppe. The upper river near Bariloche is the easiest water to reach for a half day. Farther downstream, below the dams, the stretch known as the Middle Limay is a well-known dry fly tailwater. It sits a few hours from town, so it is a trip in its own right rather than a quick outing.

The Manso. A glacial river to the south and west of town, running through forest and canyon toward the Chilean border, fished both on foot and from boats.

The Traful. North of Bariloche, the Traful drains Lake Traful and is known for landlocked salmon as well as trout. It is fast, clear water that suits anglers who like to wade.

Farther north in Neuquén. Around Junín de los Andes and San Martín de los Andes, the Chimehuín, Malleo, Aluminé and Collón Curá are some of the best known trout rivers in Argentina, and the mouth of the Chimehuín is one of the most famous spots in Patagonia.

The lakes. Nahuel Huapi and the smaller lakes around it are fished from boats, and a few, such as Lake Moreno, stay open beyond the main river season. Check the current rules for any lake you plan to fish.

The season and the license

The trout season in Argentine Patagonia opens on November 1. In Neuquén, Río Negro and Chubut, and in the national parks, it generally runs to the end of April or the start of May, with some rivers closing earlier and some lakes open longer.

One Patagonian fishing license covers Neuquén, Río Negro, Chubut and the national parks, so the same license works around Bariloche and down here in Chubut. You need it for every day you fish. Our guide to the Argentina fishing license walks through how to get one.

Catch and release is the norm on many rivers in the region and required on some. Rules on catch and release, flies and wading gear differ by water and are updated each season, so read the current regulation for the water you plan to fish before you go.

When the fishing is best

Early in the season, in November and early December, snowmelt can keep some rivers high, and water that drains a lake usually clears first. Most guides point to late December through February for the most consistent dry fly fishing. March and April bring cooler weather and big brown trout moving out of the lakes into the rivers, which is when some of the largest fish of the season are caught.

Fishing from Bariloche: what to expect

Bariloche is a city of well over 100,000 people and the busiest tourist town in the region, and that cuts both ways. You get choice: dozens of guides, fly shops, hotels and restaurants, and the option of half-day or full-day trips without committing to a lodge week. The trade-off is that the water closest to town sees more anglers, and some of the best known water, the Middle Limay and the Neuquén rivers, is a long drive away each day.

When to head south

If you want a week rather than a day or two, it is worth looking past Bariloche. Two and a half to three hours south, through El Bolsón, the Chubut cordillera has its own chain of lakes and rivers around Cholila and Los Alerces National Park, with far fewer anglers.

This is our home water. The Carrileufú flows out of Lago Cholila past the lodge and into Lago Rivadavia, and within reach are the Rivadavia and Arrayanes rivers inside the park and lakes like Verde, Krugger and Futalaufquen. Because these rivers drain lakes, they tend to clear and settle earlier in the season than free-flowing rivers elsewhere in Patagonia. Our guide to fly fishing near Esquel covers this water in detail, and the trout of the Carrileufú covers the fish.

Bariloche has more flights and usually cheaper fares, some straight from Ezeiza in Buenos Aires. Esquel is closer, about 90 minutes from the lodge, but has fewer flights. Tell us your dates and we will tell you honestly which works better.

A simple way to plan it

If you have a day or two, fish from Bariloche with a local guide. If you want the Middle Limay or the Neuquén rivers, plan your nights near that water rather than driving from town every day. If you want a full week on quieter water, fly into Bariloche or Esquel and come south to the Cholila valley. Our region-by-region guide to Patagonia's rivers helps if you are still deciding where to go.